 Ask Ariane - Make up &Beauty advice - Special Feature
Eyebrows and Eyebrow Shaping As a make-up artist there are two things that are fundamental to looking great whether you're 'au natural' or fully made-up. These are a flawless foundation ( I'll go into how to get that another time) and well shaped brows.
Eyebrows really define and accent the face even without makeup. So the right shape eyebrows is essential. Perfectly groomed brows are an absolute must.
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Tweezerman
Tips for Great Plucking:
- use good tweezers
- do after a bath or shower, when skin is warm
- pluck in the direction the eyebrow hairs grow.
- pluck in good even light
- apply Ambesol to eyebrows to numb if it really hurts
- use a white pencil to mark eyebrows which are to be remove, that way you know exactly what shape you'll end up with.
- rub an ice cube the plucked area to reduce redness
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Eyebrow shaping : For the best results it's a good idea to tidy brows in good light (day light preferred) and to look into a magnifying mirror.
- First, brush brows up and trim, using nail scissors, any long rouge hairs - be careful.
- Always use good quality tweezers. I recommend TWEEZERMAN SLANTED.
- To find the most flattering shape for your eyes, use the pencil test which will tell you where your brows should start and end. Starting on the right side, place a pencil vertically along the side of your nose past your eyebrow. Remove any hairs on the bridge of the nose not touched by the pencil. These can make you look as if you are frowning. Next place the pencil diagonally from the edge of your nostril to the outer corner of the eye. Any hairs below the pencil should be removed or your will look droopy. Your brows should arch gradually, staring over the pupil, following the natural shape, so pluck only the strays to really open up your eyes. Now repeat on the left side.
- Before you pluck use a white eye pencil to etch out any hairs that don't fall inside your guide lines. This will help guide you, so both sides come out even. And contrary to what we've all been told in the past it's okay to pluck any strays from the top.
- Always pluck out eyebrows in the direction the hairs grow. Do it after a bath or shower it will hurt less. A bit of baby's teething ointment or an ice cub on the brows can help numb the pain. |
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Calvin Klein
Brow Groomer
Next define them. If they only need to be tamed try Origins Just Browsing Tinted Brow Gel (available in 4 shades) or Calvin Klein Brow Groomer or fill them in if they need it, using either a eyebrow pencil, eyebrow powder or eyebrow powder pencil. See below. |
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Benefit
Brow Zing
Chanel
Perfect Brows
Lancome
Kit Sourcil
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If you've over plucked in the past they don't always grow back as nicely as one would like. Luckily there are many products and techniques to correct and define even the sparsest of brows. For the most natural appearance choose a colour the same colour as your hair, ( all colours are now available ) or a shade lighter, don't go for anything darker it will be too overpowering.
- Follow the pencil trick to see where your eyebrows should begin and end.
- Start by brushing your eyebrows down ( I know this sounds odd but it works ). Then using a stiff flat edge brush dipped in brow powder. There are some great brow enhancing kits around check out - Chanel Perfect Brows (brow kit, available in America & Europe), Hard Candy Training Brow, Lancome Kit Sourcil, YSL Accent Sourcil or BeneFit Brow Zing. Go lightly along the top of the brows, then brush them up and lightly fill in any gaps. If you prefer to use a pencil or powder pencil look at Dior, L'Oreal, No7 Precision Brow Definer (not available in US)or Colourings Powder Brow Pencil, and follow the same steps.
- Brush eyebrows back up, you'll see an immediate difference. You can now fill in the gaps from underneath using the same technique, if you have a large gap or scar use a regular eyebrow pencil first then follow with the powder. Finish with a brush of clear mascara, Paula Dorf Perfect Brow or Tweezerman Browmousse to seal.
And finally I'd also like to tell you about a great brow kit by Eliza Petrescu "Celebrity Brow Guru". Eliza's Essential Kit is available from www.beauty.com |
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